Assisi, [Middle of February], 1978
Impressions of the Journey through Italy
One can share the feelings of Hermann Hesse. Tuscany and Umbria - the region around Florence, Perugia, and Assisi - belong to one of the most beautiful cultural scenes in Europe. The eye cannot see enough of it. Be it the multi-colored marble facade of the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, Brunelleschi’s dome, Michelangelo’s late work, the Pieta in the Duomo, the incomparable masterworks of the Tuscan school of painting in the Uffizi Gallery, or the frescoes of Cimabue and Giotto in the Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi, the eternal Italy has not lost anything of its attraction.
However, one step through the center of Perugia shows the problems of today’s Italy. How can anyone still live in these centuries-old buildings? Wherever you look, the aggravating problems of the old inner cities are visible. Poverty lives in the narrow alleys, the houses are dilapidated, and the streets suffocate with the automotive traffic. The political consequences of these wretched conditions are understandable.
Rome, February 20, 1978
The plight of the inner city can especially be seen in Rome. In a graffiti scheme to an extent never seen before, any available wall has been scrawled with hammer and sickle. Without a doubt, one part of the Italian population is waiting for Communism as a salvation that will solve all problems, while the other part just as strongly abhors and fears Communism. This polarization of Italian society has created a threatening tension in the country, led to distrust and fear, if not to a civil war like situation. High schools and universities have been thrown into chaos by the continuing agitation and violent riots.
February 22, 1978
The Audience with the Pope
Pope Paul VI has scheduled for each Wednesday morning at 11 a general audience in the new Aula del Nervi with a capacity of 6,000 persons. Visitors to Rome, but especially invited schools have admission to these audiences. To see and hear the Pope speak in person is a moving experience. Paul VI spoke with a memorable, clearly articulated though fragile voice. He gave to the faithful present in the Hall as well as to Christians everywhere a Lenten sermon, which was distinguished by its depth of thought and convincing faith. The meaning of the “Quaresima,” he emphasized, was to change one’s ways and the renewal of the Christian conscience. Pope Paul VI radiates a deep humanity, while at the same time one can recognize a sharp intellect and an inward-withdrawn personality. The relaxed human atmosphere of this papal audience was also expressed by the participation of a troupe of acrobats from the Circus Medrano, who performed parts of their art at the beginning and toward the conclusion of the audience. Not only the visitors, also Paul VI followed their presentation with great delight.
Naples, [End of February], 1978
Who comes to Naples with the romantic image of “O sole mio,” will experience a bitter disappointment. Naples has become an inferno of modern industrial society. Dense fumes from the indiscriminately dispersed refineries hang over the much praised Bay with its view of Vesuvius. In the city, the visitor is confronted with unparalleled poverty and neglect. Naples may well have one of the worst slums with all its negative side effects in the industrialized world. The decline of the maritime traffic has added its part to this sordid condition. The megalopolis, where several million people live crammed together, stretches far beyond Naples to Salerno and Sorrento. The problems of today’s Italy are concentrated in the small and middle-sized cities, which, it appears, cannot cope with the industrialization. This is the tug-of-war between Andreotti and Berlinguer.